The New York Fall/Winter 2019 collections received mixed reviews: some criticized a lack of thematic cohesion, an excessive attempt to satiate the trend-driven appetites of the Instagram age, and a general slump in sartorial innovation. An increasingly fragmented week reveals off-calendar events and programming up to two weeks after the formal end of the New York season, indicating there is still plenty of emerging talent eager to display their wares and capture the fashion world's fleeting attention. While editors have moved through London and are now onto the Milan shows, we revisit five standout shows from the Manhattan runways that held up a rather lackluster season.

The collection felt a tad less girly than the ethereal Australian belle Zimmermann has come to be known for, taking a turn for the theatrical with leather hats, ribbon-tied shoes and an excess of black lace. Large belts were like relics from a dress-up box, fastening an equally dramatic tasseled, cream-colored gown. Corsetry and flouncy sleeves demonstrated Nicky Zimmermann’s mastery of proportion play. Scattered between the hooded anoraks and military-style pocketing were the feather-light dresses we know and love, reimagined in bold animal prints and antique floral patterns alike. Uniting the mixed influences that made for such a dynamic collection was an unwavering conviction in the power of a woman’s wardrobe: this season, more than ever, women are dressing on their own terms.


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